August 16, 2014…This anemone dahlia serves as a rest stop.
Looking over Kathy’s dahlias at some of the 2500 kinds that must be whittled down to 100.
Kathy grows dahlias…lots of them. Knowing of my interest in bees, she has explained how bees have helped her to grow different kinds of dahlias. For many years, she hand pollinated the dahlias she wanted to hybridize. About a year and a half ago, a swarm of bees chose a nearby cedar tree as their future home and started visiting her dahlias. Kathy says she gets much better results from the bees’ pollination. She collected the seeds after pollination and grew over 2500 kinds. Of the 2500, she will select only about 100 that make the grade. (I’m glad I don’t have to decide, I like them all.)
This is one of 2500 varieties that Kathy grew this year. She must whittle it down to about “100 keepers.”
This is known as a giraffe pattern dahlia. Kathy says she is indebted to the bees for their pollination services. I am intrigued by the variety of styles.
An orchid form dahlia
August 16, 2014…Since the bees adopted this high up cavity in a cedar tree, Kathy has benefited from them pollinating her dahlias. In the video you can see how high up it is with a steady stream of bees flying in and out.
Is this a keeper or will it go into the compost? Kathy hasn’t decided yet, but she does like what she sees. It started opening up yesterday and will look different tomorrow, “it’s promising,” she says.
Kathy says she is indebted to the bees for making this one which she is planning to keep.
Sunspot…a mignon dahlia creation that Kathy has let us grow for our bees.
May 29, 2014…My wife said there were five bees on this earlier, but when I grabbed the camera, I only caught one bee.
May 28, 2014…My neighbor’s New Zealand Cabbage trees are blooming. I’m glad it’s on someone else’s property because there is a strong odor associated with it. Our bees love it.
May 28, 2014…New Zealand Cabbage has been blooming awhile. Our bees are all over it, all day.
May 27, 2014…A skipper is probing the depths of this Pink Chintz Thyme for nectar. In the video, you can see it try several spots before finally succeeding. The bees love this plant as well.
May 11, 2014…This little nuc hive survived the winter in a tree without any help from me. No sugar feeding or pollen paddies supplied. (Tough love) No honey was taken. It came from a swarm on April 18, 2013. Now it’s ready to swarm.
Bees revving it up to make their move
Ten minutes later, the bees appear to be headed back into the hive. Later in the day, all was quiet.
May 19, 2014 (8 days later)…A swarm starts to form in the bamboo. Could this be two swarms from the same hive?
May 19, 2014…While the swarm is forming on the bamboo, bees are fanning at the entrance to the tree hive.
By late afternoon, all the bees returned to the tree hive.
May 20, 2014 (next day)…A small swarm in the blackberries…
…and a small swarm in the bamboo.
Again, a small group of bees are fanning at the entrance to the tree hive, while other bees are flying around the two swarms.
Could it be that the queen can’t/won’t fly? It came from a swarm, so I know it’s wings haven’t been clipped. I guess I’ll find out in the next few days what is going on, but if a more experienced beekeeper wants to hazard a guess, I’d be curious.
In looking back at where this swarm originated from…from my log hive, on April 18, 2013. The swarm picked this patch of bamboo to settle in.
May 21…I checked to see if the swarm was still in the bamboo this morning. It was.
A closer look reveals that while small, this swarm might be big enough to make it. I called Bob to see if he still was interested in getting swarms for his Kenyan Top Bar Hives. He was.
Bob bags his first swarm. Bee Beard Log Hive looks on, as patient and quiet as ever.
Bob said he was interested in getting the blackberry swarm too. It went very well. Here the bees are fanning to indicate the queen is within.
Bob gets his second swarm. “Two in one day,” not bad for a new beekeeper!
May 1, 2014 mid afternoon…Photo by Mary Schamehorn. I’m glad Mary got a shot of this. When I got there, they were relatively peaceful.
4:38 pm…By the time I got there, the bees had settled within the birdhouse. I looked at it, determined I could remove it from the post, and got my tools together. Ha ha, the screws were rusty I couldn’t get them to budge before stripping them out. I had to remove the post too.
I placed it next to the newly assembled and baited Warre hive in my bee garden. I was hoping the bees would recognize a 4 star lodging with ample room to grow…they didn’t. I gave them plenty of time to reconsider, but they weren’t having it. I couldn’t leave them there, like that. I didn’t want to grind the brackets off or pry the birdhouse floor off because it would have been too stressful. “Dramatic and traumatic” are words I like to avoid in beekeeping.
Okay, I’ve got to move the birdhouse out of the bee garden because, well, we’ve got to be able to weed and water without the bees buzzing us. After two days, I pre-dug a post hole, waited til night and ‘posted’ the birdhouse among the ferns about 20 feet away. (Something most beekeepers would tell you NOT to do because the bees might not be able to find their way back to the hive.) I stuffed tissue paper into the entrance hole so the bees would notice something was different. They would have to make orientation flights all over again. I’m thinking that maybe the Warre was too close to the birdhouse…if I move it away, maybe they will want it more. My wife said I was crazy to think that. I says, ‘maybe,’ but we’ve got to get it out of the way.
Next day, the birdhouse/hive is in it’s new location. The bees are aware something is different because of the tissue paper stuffed in the entrance hole.
As my wife bicycled to town, I noticed a bunch of activity between the birdhouse and the Warre hive. I got my camera to document my findings…I was going to have it on camera so I could show her I knew what I was doing. They are fanning from the nasonov gland to indicate the queen is within. Wow, that didn’t take long. My wife is going to have to admit I was right, but I’ll be humble and admit it’s just a stroke of luck. But it was too good to be true. By the time she returned the crowd at the entrance was thinning and the bees rejected this hive once again.
Here is where they will stay. It’s the house they chose and while the location has changed a few times, the house is the same. I just wish I could have fastened it to a taller post.
Mary’s bees have settled in now. They have discovered the Poached egg meadowfoam.
Mary’s bee cleaning off her antennae. How do I know they are Mary’s bees? The abdomen colors are different. I’m happy to get new genetics in my bee yard.
April 22, 2014…Swarm in short tree. Baited nuc hive very close. Wife says, “DO NOT CUT MY TREE.” The bees refused to enter this hive. Hal waits four days…no luck. He gets a bigger hive.
April 24, 2014…With a bigger hive consisting of two Westerns, Hal coaxes the bees in, opens the lid briefly to show us the bees, before closing everything up.
Cinches the belt so we don’t have to worry about the hive sliding open and bees flying around our heads while driving back.
April 24, 2014…This is the log hive where the bees swarmed from.
January 22, 2014…Same log hive, many fewer bees which are clustering up high.
Hive loaded into car, we are good to go!
Next morning…Day 1. Bees still here.
April 27, 2014…Day 3. The bees are flying well. Looks like they have accepted the move. Thank you, Hal, for getting us bees that have not been medicated, treated with mite strips or even fed with anything but their natural unadulterated honey.
Whenever we find a swarm much above eye level, the Steinkraus-Morse Swarm Catcher is called into action. You can make one by cutting the bottom out of a plastic flower pot and attaching a cloth sack. The height is adjustable by the length of bamboo used. Many thanks to Don Steinkraus for writing about it, and Terry Kelly of Berkeley for sending it to me. It’s invaluable.
I consider myself a ‘natural beekeeper.’ I don’t make splits, raise my own queens, or buy package bees. I let the bees swarm. I believe in the adage, “Swarming Bees are Healthy Bees.” Having said that, when the bees swarm, we have to catch them. If they swarm into the bamboo, it’s lower to the ground, but difficult to get. If they swarm into the spruce tree, they generally cluster up high. The first one this year formed high, then re-formed to a lower more reachable area.
Pipe holders for a length of bamboo to slip into.
Sew in a curve to avoid trapping bees in a corner.
Velcro attaches the sack to the cut off flower pot.My first swarm this year happened last week. I was busy with printing deadlines when my wife shouted, “WE HAVE A SWARM!” The bees seem to like this spruce tree. It’s been the scene for three swarms now, two of which we have caught.
Centering the catcher under the swarm.
The idea is to position the catcher under the swarm before bumping the branch to make the bees fall directly into the sack. Last year I was able to ‘pop’ the branch upward to get a bunch of bees all at once. This time it didn’t go as planned. The bees clung to the branch. When I ‘popped the branch,’ They started flying around and getting all defensive. The camera lady was concerned (maybe because we were both getting stung) so we didn’t get the action on video. The next morning we were more successful. We trimmed a few branches and I was able to ‘pop’ the branch from above. The bees fell into the sack, the sack was emptied into the empty Warre, and all is well as of day 4.
April 15, 2014…This is day 4. I’m assuming the bees have decided to stay.
April 15, 2014…the bees can be seen through the observation window. Chaining to ‘measure’ for building natural comb.
I’m sure you’ve seen the you-tube video of the guy putting his bare hand into a swarm of bees. As I suited up to get this newly formed swarm, I’m thinking, “what a sissy I am. The swarm just formed, they’re not going to sting.” Let’s just say, I’m glad I was suited up. I was able to give this bee sting remedy a good test. By softening up the end of a clove of garlic, rubbing it onto the stings to relieve the pain and the swelling, I can report that it worked well on all our stings.
I found out about peppermint oil from one of the bee forums. If you daub some of it around the sting area, it will cover up the bee’s alarm pheromone…just don’t daub it directly on your sting because it can be much more painful than the sting itself. Believe me, I know.
This hive swarmed the very next day. Then it went on to throw 5 more swarms that we know about. Today, (mid January, 2014) it’s still our strongest hive with no intervention.
Whenever the subject of making splits, pulling off queen cells, or otherwise trying to prevent the hive from swarming comes up at the bee meeting, I am always reluctant to entertain the idea. To me it just didn’t sound natural. What guarantee would I have that I am selecting the best queen cells. But I can’t argue with the more experienced beekeepers because, well, I’m a new beekeeper with no experience. Recently I came across an article in Simple Bees, written by John Haverson, a British Beekeeper. He presents some compelling reasons why we should let the bees decide for themselves. Swarming Bees Healthy Bees Haverson
December 27…Bees in Bee Beard Log Hive have found a pollen source late in the year. Natural comb can be seen in the rear. In the video, the bees can be seen entering the hive and moving downward in front of the comb.
December 27…Warre Hive is being fed with a dry sugar mix consisting of green tea, chamomile tea, nettle leaf extract oil, cane sugar, and a few other little gems. The sugar was placed on a 2″ x 2″ frame and positioned between the brood box and the quilt box, then sealed with red tape. I’m not real excited about feeding sugar to the bees. It’s possible that I won’t do that next year, but that’s what I said last year too. It’s the only hive that is being fed this year.
December 27…Even this little hive was flying today. The pink insulation is meant to cut the cold wind, but it still lets the hive breathe through the quilt box on top.
Some of the bulbs being planted for the bees. I was able to purchase these locally from my favorite nursery, 101 Plants and Gifts.
It’s possible that everyone already knows certain bulbs provide an early nectar source for bees. I might be new to the game because, well, I’ve never really been overly appreciative of growing flowers. “They take up space and use precious water.” Being on a shallow well makes you a water miser. But these grow during the rainy season. Some can even be planted in the front lawn, not taking up space or using extra water as in the Siberian Squill. Being a beekeeper has changed my attitude towards flowers. Now my motto is, ” You can never have too many (bee-loving) flowers.”
Since I recently broke up a new patch of ground for the Towers of Jewel ‘trees’, I have some extra space I can dedicate to bulbs. Che Guebuddha, a blogger from Sweden, mentioned even more bulbs like the white Snow Drops and the yellow Eranthis. A quick call to find out I can’t get them locally, but I CAN get them from John Scheepers on the east coast. I order another 150 more. Looks like I’ll have to break more ground. As an after thought I wonder if I have to worry about poisons on the bulbs. Alicia at the customer service desk of John Scheepers, Inc. assures me “there are no sprays, poisons, or toxins associated with these bulbs.” Good! They are going in next weekend.
Newly planted “Tower of Jewel ‘trees. I’m counting on these plants to grow about 10 feet (3 meters) this spring. With the addition of bulbs, we’ll be able to provide an early nectar source as well as mid summer nourishment for the honeybees and bumblebees.
12-26-13…Drumstick Alliums are up already. I don’t know if that’s a good thing or not! I’m protecting this patch because the sub freezing temps are bad for the echium (Tower of Jewels)…something I didn’t think about when I planted the bulbs. 😦
February 5, 2014…Grape Hyacinth and 15 Drumstick Allium are up. Giant Snowdrops just breaking.
February 5, 2014…close up of Grape Hyacinth. My wife says I planted them too close together. She might be right.
“An excellent source of blue pollen,” says BBHB, who has graciously given me permission to use his photo of Siberian Squill.
Planting instructions according to Wisconsin Master Gardening Program:Plant the small bulbs in the fall, placing them 2 to 3 inches deep and 2 to 4 inches apart. Because of the ephemeral nature of the foliage, this small bulb can easily be grown in sunny lawns. To plant Siberian squill in turf, scatter the bulbs randomly in the area you want them. Then punch or auger a hole in the sod, using a dibble or other implement (some people suggest a cordless drill with a large bit), wherever a bulb has fallen. Place the bulb (pointed side up) at the bottom of the hole and fill in with additional soil. Wait until the bulb’s foliage has started to die down in spring before resuming mowing the lawn.
That sounds easy enough. I’m planting them tomorrow.
One of the first spring-flowering bulbs, easy to grow, cold hardy, blue pollen for the bees..what’s not to like? It’s considered invasive.
Discussion about Siberian Squill on beesource.com Why is it that so many of the plants that bees like are considered invasive??? I’m planting anyway because it’s an early food source, good for the bees, can grow in my lawn, is deer resistant, and will go dormant by mid May.
November 9, 2013…The cordless drill worked well. I planted 50 bulbs of Siberian Squill hoping it would be enough to get videos of bees carrying blue pollen in March. Snowdrops will be going in as soon as I can find a source.